VALUES

Manual TC (twin-carb) models are most sought-after. The 2200 has the advantage of better performance and refinement but is too new for free road tax. The 2000SC auto is probably least desirable as performance is rather lacklustre… Despite this, prices seem pretty consistent and range from £3-400 for a restoration project to £2500-£3000 for one of the best original or restored cars. £1500-£2000 should buy a sound, roadworthy and reasonably presentable example that can be used, enjoyed and progressively improved.

ENGINE & GEARBOX

• The four-cylinder engine is good in  2000 and 2200 form, though the latter is generally considered a little  more refined and ‘efficient’.
• Clattering noise from the front end on cranking and/or shortly after starting indicates worn timing chain(s). The  top one is a bit tricky to change, the  bottom one even worse!
• Setting tappet clearances (by shims)  is a major job, so allow for 2-3 hours work if the top-end sounds noisy. However once done, it’s done, and shouldn’t need further attention.
• Cooling system maintenance is  vital: good quality anti-freeze in a 50-50 water/concentrate mix all  year round and renewed every two  years irrespective of use. Make sure   the engine doesn’t overheat but does reach normal operating  temperature. If it stays cold the  thermostat may have been removed to disguise overheating.
• Coolant leaks from the engine side plates are common but usually easy to fix, albeit a little fiddly if ancillaries are in the way.
• Manual gearboxes rarely give trouble. Autos too are generally reliable, but check that the kickdown is working. Dip the fluid too and note its colour. Red’s good, pink or black means an overhaul’s looming
• Clutch renewal is an engine-out job 

STEERING, SUSPENSION, BRAKES

• Pre-1966 cars had Dunlop brakes; less satisfactory than the excellent later Girling system, and there are  parts availability issues. Changing to Girling is possible but fairly involved.
• Rear brakes have inboard-mounted disc pads, removal of which requires a special tool and is therefore  often neglected.
• As is well-known, the rear suspension features a De-Dion tube, so check before purchase and regularly thereafter  that its gaiter isn’t damaged and thus letting grease out and water in.
• Heavy steering usually indicates lack of box and/or idler lubrication, though possibly-expensive overhauls may be needed if the neglect’s been long-term.

To read the complete Buyer's Checklist feature buy the May 2011 issue of Classic Car Mart. Back issues available here.